The Complete Beginner’s Guide to Darts: Everything You Need to Know to Get Started

You just bought a dartboard. Or maybe you haven’t yet and you’re doing your research before taking the plunge. Or you watched the PDC World Championship on TV, got hooked watching those guys throwing darts like it was nothing and thought: this looks easy, right?

Spoiler: it’s not easy. But it’s not impossible either. With decent equipment, a couple of hours a week and patience during the first three months, you’ll go from “I’m missing the whole board” to “I’m starting to close 501 legs” faster than you think.

This guide is designed to help you avoid the typical mistakes we all make when starting out. They’re the same mistakes I made, that my mate made when I taught him, and that 90% of people make when they start playing without any prior knowledge. Skip them and you’re already ahead.

Let’s get into it.

1. What is darts? A brief introduction before we start

Darts is a precision sport that involves throwing small metal projectiles at a circular board divided into numbered sections. It sounds simple because it is — and yet it has enough technical depth to support a professional circuit with million-pound prize pools.

Originating in medieval England as military training, modern darts consolidated at the end of the 19th century and today is played across two major circuits:

• PDC (Professional Darts Corporation): the most media-friendly circuit, with stars like Luke Littler, Luke Humphries, Michael van Gerwen and Gerwyn Price.
• WDF (World Darts Federation): an international circuit with a strong presence in clubs and national federations.

In Spain, the FED (Spanish Darts Federation) organises official competitions and represents the country internationally. There are active clubs in virtually every province, and the amateur scene is growing fast.

But you don’t need to be a professional to enjoy it. The beauty of darts is that it can be played at any level: from a few friends at home with a beer, to competing in federated leagues at weekends.

2. Basic equipment: the dartboard

The dartboard is the most important investment. It’s where you’ll spend hours, and it determines whether your experience is enjoyable or frustrating.

Types of dartboard: sisal vs electronic

Sisal dartboard (also called “bristle”):

• Material: compressed sisal fibres (a tropical plant)
• Used with steel tip darts
• The official board of the PDC and WDF
• Advantage: fibres close after each impact, lasts years
• Disadvantage: missed darts end up in the wall (prepare a surround)
• Price: between €40 and €120 for quality boards

Electronic dartboard:

• Perforated plastic with sensors in each section
• Used with soft tip darts
• Auto-scoring, statistics tracking, sounds, games
• Advantage: ideal for beginners who don’t know how to score yet
• Disadvantage: darts are lighter (max. 18g), the feel is different
• Price: between €60 and €200

Recommendation for beginners:

If your intention is to learn properly and progress towards PDC/federated competition level, go for a sisal board. The feel when a dart lands, the sound, the weight of the darts — it’s all different and can’t be replicated. A Winmau Blade 6 or a Unicorn Eclipse HD2 costs around €60–80 and will last 3–5 years of regular use.

If your goal is more casual (playing games with friends, recreational use, kids at home), an electronic board will give you more fun from day one because you don’t have to learn manual scoring.

Official setup measurements

There’s no room for guesswork here. The measurements are defined by the World Darts Federation and are the same worldwide:

Tip: if you run a string from the bullseye to the floor, the distance to the oche should be exactly 2.93 metres diagonally. This is the official check used at any tournament.

Lighting: the detail that changes everything

A poorly lit board is a board you can’t see. And if you can’t see it, you can’t aim. There are two options:

LED ring lamp: mounted around the board. Provides even illumination, eliminates shadows, price between €30 and €80. The best quality/experience ratio.

Lateral ambient lighting: two halogen or LED spotlights angled from above at 45°. Cheap but there will always be shadows from the dart itself.

Don’t use simple overhead lighting (ceiling bulb): the dart casts its own shadow right over the zone you’re trying to see. Guaranteed frustration.

The surround: protect your wall and your darts

The surround is a thick rubber ring that goes around the board. It has two functions:

1. Protect the wall from stray darts
2. Protect darts from hitting a hard wall (tips and flights break)

Price: €15–30. Not mandatory but almost as important as the board itself.

3. Basic equipment: the darts

This is where many beginners go wrong. They buy the cheapest darts they can find on Amazon, think they all look the same, then wonder why they’re not progressing. Darts matter. A lot.

Parts of a dart

A dart is made up of 4 parts, all interchangeable:

1. Tip (point)
Steel: for sisal boards. Fixed (fixed point) or moveable (moving point, retracts on impact to reduce bounce-outs).
Plastic/nylon: for electronic boards (soft tip).

2. Barrel
The thick central part where you grip the dart. Almost all the weight is concentrated here. Its shape, material and texture are decisive.

3. Shaft
The stem that connects the barrel to the flight. Available in aluminium, nylon, carbon, fibre. Long, medium, short.

4. Flight
The rear part that stabilises the dart in flight. Shapes include: standard, slim, pear, kite. Each shape modifies the trajectory.

Barrel materials: brass vs tungsten

Brass:

• Cheap (€5–15 per set of 3)
• Less dense → thicker barrel for same weight → worse groupings
• Only suitable for casual electronic boards or occasional use

Tungsten:

• Price depends on purity: 80%, 85%, 90%, 95%
• Very dense → thinner barrel for same weight → better groupings
• Recommended for sisal and serious progression
• Beginner recommendation: 80–85% tungsten, between €20–35

Shortcut to get started right: a set of 80% tungsten darts from a recognised brand (Target, Winmau, Unicorn, Harrows, Red Dragon) around €25–30 is perfect for the first 12–18 months. Once you’ve mastered the technique, you can move up to 90–95% if you need to.

Weight: the most critical factor

Barrel weight is measured in grams. The most common weights range from 18g (electronic) to 26g (sisal). PDC professionals typically use between 21g and 26g.

Golden rule for beginners: 22–24 grams.

Why?

• Under 20g: the dart “floats”, any hand tremor affects the trajectory
• Over 25g: tires the arm in long sessions, requires a more established technique
• 22–24g: perfect balance between stability and reasonable muscle control

If you already play another sport that trains the arm (tennis, badminton, basketball), you can go for 24–26g without a problem. If not, start at 22g.

Barrel shape

There are four main shapes:

Straight: cylindrical, no predetermined grip point. You let each finger find its place. Very popular in modern PDC.

Torpedo: thick at the front, thin at the back. Naturally guides the grip towards the thicker part. Good for 2–3 finger grips.

Bomb (bombé): thick in the centre, thin at both ends. Very popular in classic style.

Scalloped: with ring-type grooves. More grip but can be uncomfortable if you have sensitive fingers.

To start, choose torpedo or straight with medium grip (not aggressive). After 3–6 months you’ll know which barrel type suits your style.

4. The throwing line (oche) and body stance

The line from which you throw is called the oche (pronounced “ockey”). This word comes from old English and is pure darts jargon: nobody says “the line”, always “the oche”.

Basic stance

Feet:

• Lead foot (the one on the side of your throwing arm): just behind the oche, pointing between straight ahead and 45° towards the board.
• Back foot: slightly apart, behind, as support.
• 70–80% of weight on the lead foot.

Torso:

• Leaning forward, as if trying to shorten the distance to the board.
• Straight spine, not hunched.

Shoulders:

• Throwing shoulder slightly more forward than the other.
• Relaxed. Very relaxed.

Head:

• Tilted forward, aligning dominant eye with the trajectory.
• Eyes fixed on the target (not on the dart).

The most common stance mistake

Swaying backwards during the throw. Beginners want to “put power into it” and lean back to build momentum. Result: the dart flies in an uncontrolled arc.

Darts are not thrown with body force. They’re thrown with forearm force. The body stays stable, the arm does the work.

5. How to grip the dart

There is no single correct grip. Professionals use different variations. But there are 3 basic grips and one of them will be yours.

2-finger grip (thumb + index)

The simplest. Thumb underneath, index finger on top, behind the tip. The other three fingers don’t touch the dart (they fold over the palm).

• Pros: simple, little to control.
• Cons: less stability, requires a perfect balance point.

Used by players with a very “educated” arm (Phil Taylor popularised it).

3-finger grip (thumb + index + middle)

The most common among professionals and the most recommended for beginners.

• Thumb under the centre of the barrel.
• Index finger on top, slightly forward.
• Middle finger resting alongside or behind the index.

• Pros: stability, easy to replicate, more forgiving.
• Cons: none real for a beginner.

This is the recommended grip for your first 6 months.

4-finger grip (thumb + index + middle + ring)

Less common. Provides a lot of control but limits the release.

• Pros: maximum stability.
• Cons: can block the natural release of the dart.

Some players like Mervyn King use it successfully, but it’s not the easiest path for beginners.

Universal rules for any grip

1. Don’t squeeze. A tight grip kills precision. Imagine you’re holding a pen you’re about to write with: that light.
2. Consistent grip. Each of the 3 darts in a set must be gripped in exactly the same way.
3. Find the balance point. If you rest the dart on a single finger, there will be a point where it balances on its own. That (or very close to it) is where your thumb should grip.

6. The throw step by step

The complete throw can be broken down into 5 phases. I recommend practising them separately at first.

Phase 1 — Preparation (stance and aim)

• Get your feet into position.
• Raise your throwing arm until the elbow is level with the shoulder (roughly 90° from the torso).
• Your hand should be at the level of the visual line from dominant eye to board.
• Aim: eyes fixed on the target, not on the dart.

Phase 2 — Load (backswing)

• Flex the elbow, bringing the dart back close to the face (never touching).
• Only the forearm moves. The shoulder and elbow remain still.
• Short and controlled backswing. No need to bring the dart all the way to your ear.

Phase 3 — Acceleration (forward swing)

• Extend the forearm forward, accelerating progressively.
• The wrist stays firm during this phase (it comes into play at the end, not the beginning).

Phase 4 — Release

• Release the dart when the forearm is almost fully extended, not before.
• The wrist makes a small controlled snap.
• Fingers open in a relaxed way, not an active one.

Phase 5 — Follow-through

• The arm continues its natural movement after releasing the dart, pointing towards the target.
• Hold the position for 1 second before lowering the arm.
• Here’s the secret: a good follow-through guarantees that the previous action was fluid. If your arm stops abruptly on release, the throw was probably tense.

Mental visualisation

Before each throw, “see” the dart landing where you want it to. The world’s best players do this. It’s not magic: the brain adjusts muscularly better if it has “rehearsed” the shot a second beforehand.

7. Game modes to start with: 501 explained simply

There are dozens of darts formats. But if you only learn one at the start, make it 501. It’s the official PDC singles format and the one that dominates all serious play.

Basic rules of 501

• Each player starts with 501 points.
• They take turns throwing 3 darts per round.
• The total of the 3 darts is subtracted from 501.
• The winner is the first to reach exactly 0, but with one condition: the last dart must land in a double.
• If you go below 0 or don’t finish on a double, you bust and your opponent’s turn continues.

Example game

You start with 501.

• Round 1: Triple 20 + Triple 20 + Triple 20 = 180 (the famous “one hundred and eighty”). You’re on 321.
• Round 2: T20 + T20 + T19 = 117. You’re on 204.
• Round 3: T20 + T20 + T16 = 108. You’re on 96.
• Round 4: T20 + T20 = 96 − 120… you’ve gone bust. Better plan: T20 + S16 = 76. You’re on 20.
• Round 5: Double 10 = 20. Closed! Game won.

The key: finishing 501 in 9 darts is the perfect leg (nine-darter). In 12–15 darts is professional level. In 25–40 darts is competent amateur. In 60+ darts is honest beginner.

The board and scoring zones

The board has 20 sectors numbered 1 to 20. Each sector contains:

• Outer single zone: the sector score (20, 19, 18…).
• Treble ring (thin inner ring): triples the value. Treble 20 = 60 points.
• Inner single zone: same as outer.
• Double ring (thin outer ring): doubles the value. Double 20 = 40 points.
• Outer bull (green): 25 points.
• Inner bull / bullseye (red): 50 points (counts as “double 25”, relevant for finishing).

The highest-scoring area on the board is NOT the bullseye: it’s the Treble 20 (60 points). That’s why all professionals aim there almost all the time.

8. The 5 typical beginner mistakes

Avoid these from the start and you’ll save yourself months of bad habits.

Mistake 1: Throwing with force

The speed of the dart is irrelevant to the score. Beginners throw “hard” because it feels impressive. All it achieves is an uncontrolled dart that bounces out. Throw smoothly. Precision comes from repeating the same movement, not from power.

Mistake 2: Not warming up

Darts uses the shoulder, elbow and wrist in repetitive movements. Without warming up, it’s very easy to develop “dart elbow” (epicondylitis). Do 2–3 minutes of shoulder and wrist rotations before starting.

Mistake 3: Changing darts every week

Beginners who don’t see quick results blame the equipment. “I’ll try some 26g ones, maybe they’re better.” Bad idea. Give every set at least 2 months of consistent use before evaluating it.

Mistake 4: Practising without a goal

Throwing randomly isn’t practising. It’s passing the time. Practising means: “today I’m going to throw 100 darts at Treble 20 and see how many I hit” or “today I’m going to close 10 legs of 501 and note how many darts I need”. Without a measurable goal, there is no measurable progress.

Mistake 5: Not maintaining your equipment

Dirty darts grip the board worse, broken flights deflect trajectories, loose shafts vibrate. Check your equipment every two weeks. It takes 2 minutes and extends the life of your gear.

9. Training plan: first 4 weeks

This is a realistic progression if you can dedicate 3–4 sessions of 30–45 minutes per week.

Week 1 — Familiarisation

Goal: get used to the equipment and stance. Don’t expect to score well.

• Sessions 1–2: throw 100 darts aiming generally at the board. Observe groupings.
• Sessions 3–4: identify your dominant eye and adjust stance. Throw 50 darts at Treble 20.

Metrics: none. This week is all about feel.

Week 2 — Throw consistency

Goal: repeat the same movement dart after dart.

• Session 1: 3 sets of 30 darts at Treble 20. Rest between sets.
• Session 2: practise the 19 (an alternative to 20 that many pros use).
• Session 3: groupings. Throw 20 darts at the centre of the board and measure the grouping area.
• Session 4: timed 501 legs.

Target metric: grouping area < 15cm diameter around the centre.

Week 3 — Introduction to doubles

Goal: start finishing legs. Doubles are 90% of the difficulty in darts.

• Session 1: practise Double 16 (the beginner-friendly finish). 50 darts.
• Session 2: practise the 4 main doubles: D20, D16, D10, Bull. 25 darts each.
• Session 3: 501 legs focused on finishing without busting.
• Session 4: Around the world (sequence 1→2→3…→20→bull). Measure how many darts you need to complete it.

Target metric: consistently finishing 501 legs in 40–50 darts.

Week 4 — Full game

Goal: integrate everything learned into real games.

• Sessions 1–2: 501 legs against yourself (or a friend). At least 5 legs.
• Session 3: introduction to Cricket (American format, fun for variety).
• Session 4: general review. Identify your weak area (trebles? doubles? overall scoring?) and make a note.

Target metric: 501 legs in 30–40 darts, PPR (points per round) > 40.

After 4 weeks: you have the technical foundation. The rest is volume of repetition. 3–6 months of regular play will make you a competent amateur.

10. Frequently asked questions (FAQ)

How much does it cost to start playing darts?

With €100–150 you have decent complete equipment: an entry-level sisal board (€50), a set of 80% tungsten darts (€30), surround (€20), LED lighting (€30), wall bracket (€10).

Is it dangerous for children?

Steel tip darts are not toys and should not be handled by children under 12 without supervision. For children, use an electronic board with soft tip darts: minimal risk of injury.

Can I play with limited space at home?

You need at least 3 linear metres free (2.37m from the oche to the board + 0.5–1m behind the thrower). A hallway or small room is usually enough.

How long does a dart take to reach the board?

About 0.4–0.5 seconds from leaving the hand. It’s much slower than it looks on TV: the apparent speed is deceptive.

Is darts an Olympic sport?

No. Darts is not on the Olympic programme. It is recognised by the IOC as a candidate sport, and has a World Championship that is one of the most watched competitions in the United Kingdom.

Can I improve by playing alone or do I need an opponent?

80% of the time you can improve alone. The remaining 20% (pressure management, reading your opponent, playing under time pressure) can only be learned against a real opponent. On DARDOS.COM you’ll soon have access to a community and local clubs to find playing partners.

How often should I change my darts?

Tungsten barrels can last 5–10 years. Flights should be changed every 100–200 legs. Shafts every 50–100 legs. Fixed points last the lifetime of the dart; moving points do too with maintenance.

When can I consider myself “intermediate level”?

When you consistently close 501 legs in under 25 darts and your average points per round (PPR) exceeds 50 points. This usually comes between month 6 and month 12 of regular play.

Can I compete in federated leagues as an amateur?

Yes. The Spanish FED has amateur and semi-professional circuits open to anyone who’s registered. There are clubs in almost every province. Once you have 6–12 months of experience, joining local leagues is the natural next step.

Are betting and darts connected?

Darts is one of the sports with the largest betting market in the UK, but DARDOS.COM does not promote betting or have any relationship with bookmakers. Our focus is competition, community and a marketplace between players.

What happens if a dart bounces out of the board?

It doesn’t count. Only darts that remain in the board at the end of your 3-dart turn score.

Can I use any dart on an electronic board?

No. Electronic boards require soft tip darts with a maximum weight of usually 18–20g. Using steel tip darts will destroy it within a few throws.

Where can I buy good equipment?

DARDOS.COM will soon have a C2C marketplace where players sell equipment to each other. In the meantime, specialist shops like Dardomanía, the official Target store, or Amazon with careful review-checking are valid options.

Is there a difference between men’s and women’s darts?

None in the rules. PDC and WDF competitions have separate men’s and women’s circuits by tradition, but the equipment and technique are identical. Fallon Sherrock was the first woman to beat a man at the PDC World Championship (2020).

If I’m left-handed, is there anything specific I should know?

Stance and grip are symmetrical (left foot forward instead of right). Darts are identical. You may occasionally need lighting from the opposite side to avoid shadows. Nothing else.

Does height affect play?

Minimally. Very tall players (>1.90m) may feel they need to lean down slightly to align their eye with the bullseye. Shorter players (<1.65m) have a more natural viewing angle. Technique compensates in both cases.

Do I need insurance or permits to have a dartboard at home?

No. It’s a private leisure sport. Just make sure there’s no passing foot traffic behind the throwing area.

Can you make a living from professional darts?

The PDC top 32 earn enough to dedicate themselves full-time. Luke Humphries won around €1 million in his 2024 world title year. Below the top 64 the economics are tighter, with many professionals supplementing income through exhibitions and sponsorships.

What format is played in Spanish clubs?

The standard is 501 singles and 501 doubles pairs. Cricket is played less than in the US but is growing. Each club may have its own variations.

How noisy is playing darts?

Very little. The sound of a dart landing is quiet (sisal) or a soft electronic beep. Much less noise than any other indoor sport. Ideal for flats.

11. Next step: go deeper into what interests you most

If you’ve made it this far, you have the foundation. The next step depends on what area interests you most:

• Want to master the rules of all formats? → Read the article Official 501 rulebook and all game formats
• Got confused by a technical term? → Check the Complete Darts Glossary EN-ES
• Want to watch professional darts and don’t know how? → See the PDC 2026 Calendar
• Looking for good second-hand equipment at a good price? → Coming soon on DARDOS.COM Marketplace you’ll be able to buy and sell between enthusiasts.

Closing

Darts is one of the sports with the most honest learning curve there is. Put in the time and the results will come. There are no shortcuts, but there are no secrets either: it’s all about movement consistency, patience with the doubles, and enjoying every throw.

The Treble 20 waits for no one. See you on the oche.

Source: DARDOS.COM Editorial Team | Image: DARDOS.COM Editorial Team.